HOLIDAY spotlight

HERE IS a trip report from OUR 'SPANISH PYRENEES and steppes' summer holiday. you can enjoy this holiday in june 2009!

Heatherlea Trip Report  - Spanish Pyrenees & Steppes

Saturday 11 June
Everyone is very punctual at Gatwick, and after a slight delay we enjoy a trouble-free flight to Barcelona. Here we are met by our local expert guide. We negotiate the supply of two minibuses and see Spotless Starling fly over the airport buildings - a first lifer for some!

It is a long drive to the Hecho Valley, but with ever changing scenery once we are clear of Barcelona the views are entrancing. We enjoy the plains and our first look at the steppes, while to the north and east the pre-Pyrenees seem to offer promises to come. There are thunderous showers between Huesca and Jaca, but the air clears and birds begin to appear. We see perhaps six Red Kite and ten Black Kite as we drive into the valley, and it clear we will become well acquainted with these birds. At our hotel a warm welcome awaits from Imanol and Lucia, baby Igor and Ator the dog. After a brief break to get comfortable there is an intro chat from Kevin and Josele, and it is down to our first taste of Spanish home cooking; lovely tasty mushroom soup, ‘oxleg’, which looks and tastes like shin of beef, and ‘speciality yoghurt’ with a biscuit sauce and apple. A quick cuppa, practice for some with the butterfly net, and so to bed.

Sunday 12 June
Before breakfast some fortunate early risers find Citril Finch by the road and Red-backed Shrike on the wires. This latter is  a common bird in the high valleys, and is seen most days we are here. With Black Kite passing, Firecrest calling and Red Squirrel in the garden, we have a good start and the sun has not yet hit the tops of the mountains! Here the hills rise in sheer cliffs 5000 feet above us, with peaks around 7000 feet - a majestic and towering location, and with the peace of this mountain pass guaranteed by the lack of a link road through to France, Hecho is a quiet, perfect idyll. Our breakfast is typically Spanish, fresh orange, cereals, a hard boiled egg (this item changes each day, cheese, smoked ham and even fruit salad being offered), toast and jam, tea and coffee.

We decide to enjoy the wonderful sunshine and still, clear mountain air by exploring for local specialities on this gorgeous day. With sheer white cliff faces as a background, woodlands give way to lush high altitude meadows as we drive to a favourite spot. We see huge Griffon Vultures sitting on the high tops waiting for thermals; they will surely fly soon. Lammergeier, one of our key target birds, are found here and frequently join the vultures on these first early sorties. We are watching! As we park at the top of the road, two Citril Finches call and leave nearby trees flying away from us - not good views, but an introduction for some. With an eye on the cliffs, we all hear a Black Woodpecker nearby - another important target bird! The wooded hillside ahead drops rapidly to the valley floor, giving views across the canopy, and this proves invaluable. Josele produces a tape of the male calling, and our bird decides to investigate. The bounding flight of this large woodpecker is seen by all as it crosses the treetops, most see the red head, and although we want better views, everyone is happy that they have seen Black Woodpecker.

We walk to the Wallcreeper breeding site, identifying a couple of Alpine Chough amidst the commoner Red-legged, collecting a confiding Short-toed Treecreeper, and listening to Crested Tit, Firecrest and Cuckoo on our way. At a clear spot, the shout is ‘Lammergeier!’, and sure enough three adult birds are wheeling in the centre of the valley where seconds earlier we had seen only Griffons. We enjoy prolonged views as they wheel and soar, eventually landing and with one bird in clear view. This bird fills our scopes, showing black head markings, dark wings, long tail and overall impressive size - this is what we came here to see!

The final approach is rocky and the terrain difficult, but no-one is complaining. We all want to see this fantastic bird! At first it seems nothing will happen. Martins, vultures and Red-billed Chough are above us, but the cliff is sheer meaning we have to strain to look upwards, the path is narrow and the sun is climbing. Suddenly Josele shouts ‘Wallcreeper, Wallcreeper!’ and we are instructed where to watch on the wall by the chimney. Most of us get a flight view from directly underneath as the bird crosses the path from right to left, flicks a few times, then disappears. Josele is sanguine - ‘it will come back’. Sure enough the bird obliges, and most of us see the crimson wing patches as it flicks up a small crack, past a feature Helen christens the stumps (for some reason …) and into the open, repeatedly flashing those glorious wings. Another wait, another more prolonged view, and everyone has now seen this cracking bird, and most see the black throat which identifies it as male.

A careful return to the minibuses includes Bonelli’s Warbler for some, and we enjoy lunch and watch the vultures and eagles while Josele trains the Spanish ladies under-18 football team, injuring his thumb in the process. Fantastic scenery, raptors everywhere, and Lammergeier and Wallcreeper seen well by all, a great morning. After lunch it is hot in the valley bottom, and we spend some time identifying butterflies, including Scarce Swallowtail and Pearl-bordered Fritillary.

Later we drive to Selva de Oza at the head of the Hecho, with chocolate box views of lush green meadows and jagged imperious peaks all the way. We have good views of a pair of Red-backed Shrike, an immature Lammergeier flies through, and Egyptian Vulture at low altitude are a delight to watch. Palmate Newts in a roadside pool are of interest to us all, and there are tadpoles in every hollow and cranny it seems. We enjoy a slow drive back to the hotel, followed by an hour or so by the Rio Aragon Subordan watching vultures, juvenile Peregrine and an assortment of butterflies - another pleasure in a day full of memories.

Dinner is a great salad (lettuce, onion, beetroot, egg, tomato, cucumber and olives), tuna fish in a home-made tomato sauce, and fresh ice-cream. Everything is home-made and full of flavour - just right. As we finish it is raining hard outside, but for us a perfect day.

Monday 13 June
A cloudy yet pleasant day dawns with the prospect of great birding. There is no wind, and we head south towards the valley of the River Aragon. We make several stops on the way, finding Nightingale near Seresa, with Egyptian Vulture and kites to entertain us too. We are moved on by a patient local whose drive we are blocking, stopping next at a large layby where we eventually find a difficult to spot Serin and our first male Cirl Bunting. South of Hecho we stop by the river to enjoy the scenery, and enjoy unexpectedly good birding. Corn Bunting are scratchy songsters on distant wires, and a pale warbler by the river is exciting Josele - he has seen many Oliveaceous recently in Morocco, and this bird is very similar. After much animated discussion, it ends up as a ‘question mark’ bird, but we do make confirmed contact with a yellowish Melodious Warbler, which is a new species for many.

During our drive south a Wren darts in front of the lead bus, leading to great hilarity later at the round-up, where Josele tells us ‘it went like a wallet’ - he means bullet of course! It is worth pointing out here that Josele’s good humour and kindly personality are a vital part of a great holiday, and also his English is considerably better than your correspondent’s mastery of Spanish!

Outside the garage we have time for a magnum (double chocolate or plain are the favourites) and also a handy Black Redstart before we cross the river and head for a special site for another good bird. Ortolan Bunting breed here, and we enjoy a lustily singing male bird which gives good views of its grey/yellow streaked head and russet back at the top of a bush before heading across the cornfield like a wallet (sorry Josele).

Black Woodpecker in flight

Lunch at San Juan de la Pena with Great-spotted Woodpecker and Jay for company is followed by a walk among the trees. We get great views of Firecrest and Crested Tit, and David and Kevin have fun with a lazy butterfly which ends up as Heath Fritillary, Kevin missing the only Long-tailed Tit of the trip as a result. At the viewpoint, Josele begins to call up Black Woodpecker, and although we don’t think it too likely, suddenly the bird appears! Backwards and forwards it flies, torpedo-like black body, white bill and clear eyering, for most a flash of red on the crown, and this male bird eventually delights us all by posing on a couple of nearby dead trees. We all clock the triangular head and slender neck as the bird parades for us.

Happy with our day, we visit Binitas gorge to see lots of Griffon Vulture, and inspect some new butterflies including the spectacular Cleopatra.

Tonight we can’t go for Eagle Owl, a colossal thunderstorm dumps huge hailstones on the hotel, causing Lucia to run around checking for leaks. We are forced to drink the local red wine instead, enjoying ‘jambon curado’ (smoked ham) and each other’s company. Not a bad option really!

Tuesday 14 June

Last night’s torrential downpours have virtually cleared, but skies are heavy and cloud is likely over the very highest mountains. We decide to shelve our plans for these hills until another day, instead electing to drive to the slopes above Anso, close to the border with France. Magnificent scenery is guaranteed and some special birds await!

Our first stop is at a breathtakingly beautiful double arch in the road, where the ubiquitous Griffon Vultures are seen spreading their wings to gain heat for the day’s soaring. One bird repeatedly stretches, delighting the photographers amongst us. We study the white tail markings of Crag Martins as they brake to collect water from the wall or enter their nests, and although a large rock decides to migrate close to where Geoff is standing, we have 30 minutes or so of very enjoyable birding.

A Blue Rock Thrush is tantalising us here, flying over but not staying to be seen. A few bends down the road however, Josele spots another high on the mountain. We stop, and everyone gets good views of the brilliant deep blue plumage of this excellent male bird. Raven and Egyptian Vulture give first rate sitting views, then we are off to the campsite at Zurima. We see little in the cold air, but enjoy a hot drink and another magnum. Driving north and higher, we get good close-ups of Alpine (Yellow-billed) Chough, and a Water Pipit gives good views of its greyish back and pinkish throat and breast. Northern Wheatears are around too.

At the refuge we park near some beautiful horses, apparently kept for food. Josele is quick to add that it is the French who eat them, not the Spanish of course. The animals have bells around their necks, and some of them like apple cores!

We came here specifically for Citril Finch, and everyone enjoys good views of a splendid male on the grass, another important bird seen well by all. Soon afterwards a circling flock of mixed choughs contains a single Honey Buzzard, which most of us see very well.

We go for one of Josele’s ‘short walks’ (we all know there is no accurate translation of this phrase between Spanish and English) which is very enjoyable. We are looking for Rock Bunting without success, and are surprised by what seems to all intents to be an English Beechwood. At this altitude and temperature we could easily be in southern England. Great, Blue and Marsh Tit, singing Robin and Blackbird, a single calling Treecreeper, we did catch a plane, didn’t we?

On the way back to the car park Kevin spots a Rock Bunting which most of us see well, and indeed there are three birds altogether, though these shy birds soon take flight and disappear. A brief butterfly stop produces Green-winged Blue, and Andy has some success with the butterfly net.

By now the evening is warm, the sky is bright and the breeze is light. We are ready for dinner and more birding delights!

Our birding trip for Eagle Owl is hugely enjoyable; we miss the target bird, but excellent views of Nightjar compensate, and we watch the moons of Jupiter and the rings of Saturn through the scopes.  The night is clear, the light is lovely and everyone is relaxed, though not quite relaxed enough to play zombies with passing traffic, one day I’ll get a group to do this….

Back by 11.20, with two foxes and a wildcat crossing our path as we drive.

Wednesday 15 June

Today the skies have cleared, and it is obvious we have our chance at the high mountains. En-route Kevin enjoys a super chat to some bank employees in Jaca, while the group prefers to enjoy super views of Rock Sparrow, singing and displaying yellow throat-spots on a wall in the town. Great views of this unassuming but delightful bird.

Half the lorries in Spain are employed delivering rocks to the top of the mountain near Portalet today, and whilst local expert driver Josele breezes to the top of the hill in record time, those with Kevin finally overtake the last lorry just in time for the roadworks at the new ski development. This touch of the industrialised world is fortunately a complete contrast to the rest of our day.

There are two or three Alpine Accentor on the cliffs where we stop for a break, a surprise as these birds are usually seen at higher altitude – maybe they are failed breeders. We park on the French side of the mountain, and begin an unforgettable walk at altitudes of over 6000 feet, amongst lush green alpine meadows with jagged peaks of nearly 10000 feet all around us. Progress is swift, mainly thanks to Josele and his optimistic encouragement ‘you can do it’, ‘is not far now’, ‘only eight minutes’, ‘please stop crying’ etc etc.

At lower levels we inspect Clouded Apollo, a large white butterfly many of us wanted to see, and watch Chamoix Goat and Marmot, including two who are very interested in our lunch. Later as we return, we see half a Marmot, presumably lunch itself for a Golden Eagle. We see an adult Golden Eagle and also another immature Lammergeier – birds all the way! Alpine Chough and a singing Alpine Accentor also encourage us onwards. I can’t do justice to the scenery in this report, but the grasslands, flowers, snow patches and peaks will always be with us, I’m sure.

The final part of our ascent is demanding, but almost immediately on arrival at a secret col known only to Josele and Heatherlea we are rewarded with a splendid male Snow Finch, perhaps seeing three birds in all around the breeding area, as they come and go over a period of 30 minutes or so.

On the way down we get our best views of Alpine Accentor as a pair flit around the rockface opposite, and enjoy orchids too. Species seen include 25 x Lady’s Slipper, Spotted, Fragrant, Marsh (sp), Butterfly (prob Lesser), and Pyramid.

We are all reunited at the bottom of the hill, and enjoy a well-earned break at Portalet. Worth the effort? Of course it was!

Thursday 16 June
An early start for most of the group as we seek even better views of Wallcreeper. The site we visit has been empty of the birds for a couple of years, but one male is around this year. It is a bit of a long shot, but as Josele says confidingly to me ‘this is lucky group!’ A bit of fieldcraft is all important of course, and we know what time the bird begins to move around, where it roosts and where it likes to visit – all these things mixed with a little bit of luck means we are more than happy to go looking for this special bird once more. Dipper with young fills in one of the few remaining gaps in our list, and within 15 minutes of our arrival the Wallcreeper duly obliges. Another male bird, we are all entranced as it ‘flicks’ along the walls on both sides of the gorge, giving great eye-level views. Known as the Hoopoe of the rockface, this great little bird shows not only the crimson wing-patches but also the white wing spots and black throat – we have definitely ‘done’ Wallcreeper.

Soon it is goodbye to Imanol and off to the plains. First stop is at Riglos, and it is hot here. The massive sandstone columns tower above both the landscape and the birdwatchers, and the eye is continually drawn back to this most striking of geographical features. Stonechat, Goldfinch and a singing Orphean Warbler keep us entertained, and we see lots of Alpine Swift darting around the columns. The main attraction has to be the vultures however, and although we are well used to Griffon and Egyptian by now, they are a wonderful and imposing sight as they drift lazily around their nest ledges. We collect a juvenile Peregrine here, then enjoy a peaceful walk around this quiet town where a popular hobby is locking your dog in the garage while you go to work or hide at home securely shuttered against the sun.

Next we stop at a reliable Black Wheatear site. A semi-circular cut into the hills is covered by scrub, parched and dusty in the noonday heat. This is a great little birding alcove, and after avoiding the Tawny Pipit nest of three eggs, we quickly add Black-eared Wheatear and Thekla Lark to our ever-growing list. David is first to spot the bird we came for, and a splendid male it is too. The bird is most confiding, and with jet black plumage on the body and ‘T’contrasting with white on the rest of the tail, this hefty bird can only be Black Wheatear.

Josele is on a roll, and knows of a nearby Bonelli’s Eagle site. Would we like to see Bonelli’s? Erm, yes please Josele. Obviously we need to be at great distance from the nesting area, and also have to check the status of the birds with those monitoring their progress. This is done quietly by Josele from his charming home in Loporzano, and whilst wife Esther tolerates yet another group of birdwatchers in her kitchen, our little jaunt is organised.

By now it is VERY hot, baking the plains at the spot where we can look across to the eagle site. Raptors are everywhere and suddenly there is one with a white body! Characteristic wing shape and ‘dark’ colour, smallish head, and clear whitish patch on the back of the head make ID definite – Bonelli’s Eagle! We watch for maybe five minutes as the bird wheels and soars against the sky. We are secure in the knowledge that we are enjoying great views without disturbing this rare and special bird. As our scopes drift across the sky we also become aware of two adult Golden Eagle, come to play on the warm afternoon updrafts. The male bird treats us to its characteristic stooping display, while the female circles indifferently – a wonderful extra surprise.  Kevin catches our second Mallow Skipper butterfly of the day, hardly a match for the eagles though!

Off to the steppes now, stopping at ‘Stork City’, where perhaps 150 or more of these magnificent birds have taken advantage of some electricity pylons which were never used – perhaps the lack of wires is helpful to the storks. The birds are as hot as we are, flying, feeding young, and generally trying to keep cool. We arrive at our new base in Alcolea, unload and take a break. This siesta idea could catch on round here!

At 6pm we leave for a marvellous two hours birding, which more than one person describes as their best birding session ever. As we arrive on the steppes our first well-seen bird is a major twitch for the locals, a splendid male Red-footed Falcon. This bird is the first seen by Josele here since 1999, when six birds were recorded. The news is passed on the phone, and as two nearby Kestrels drive away this unwelcome intruder a local birder arrives to check out the area – a real needle in a haystack trying to find this bird again! Next we head off for Short-toed Lark, but don’t get far before all thoughts of small passerines are lost – there are four female Little Bustard in the field next to us! These non-breeding birds are confiding, allowing us to inspect their plumage in detail, occasionally stretching to reveal the white wing patch covering the base of the primaries and all the secondary feathers, and distinctive black-tipped coverts. We enjoy great views for about twenty minutes before moving on.

A short distance and a family of small birds attract our attention – Spectacled Warblers! Plain-winged immature birds are mostly in evidence, but once again we are distracted, this time by a nearby Tawny Pipit and a very obliging Lesser Short-toed Lark. This bird has a very dark body, and we are satisfied with our ID. Two Black-bellied Sandgrouse are seen flying at a distance, and there are a good number of Calandra Lark all around, dark underwings and distinctive white trailing edge to the wings being obvious. A distant Short-toed Eagle, more sightings of the larks, warblers and pipits, what could be better?

The sandgrouse take off and fly away from us, spurring us to follow to a new stop between ruined farm buildings. Although we can’t relocate the sandgrouse, a lovely Roller is more than compensation, brilliant blue wing-patch and bright blue body contrasting with the reddish-brown back and upper wings. This is the first of many Roller sightings. A Great-spotted Cuckoo flashes past right in front of us, and with the sun now behind, we are rewarded with excellent views – another new bird for many people.

Once more, fly-by sandgrouse tempt us further, this time Pin-tailed, and we follow these birds to a field where, by slowly advancing, we get good head and body views. There are four birds in total, and eventually they fly, giving excellent views of white bodies, chestnut heads, and distinctive wing pattern. We can of course also see the ‘pin-tail’.

Tired but happy we head back for the promise of lean local lamb at our hotel, but the birds haven’t finished with us! The lead bus see a flying male Little Bustard, a fabulous Hoopoe poses in clear view, there are Bee-eaters everywhere on the wires, and a hovering Short-toed Eagle guards the hillside as we approach Alcolea – great birding.

Friday 17 June
Today is our last full day in the steppes area, and we look forward to competing with yesterday’s tremendous birding. Breakfast is at 7 am, and plates of local cheese, sausage and smoked ham are washed down with freshly squeezed orange juice. Birding begins at 7.45, and we have soon started adding new species. A single Little Owl glares fiercely down at us from a roadside wire, one of three we see this morning. Simon notes that it isn’t 8 am yet - here we go! Five Cattle Egret rise ahead of us, and we are soon bouncing along dusty tracks with Calandra and Crested Lark and two Hobby for company. When we return to the ruined buildings of yesterday’s adventure birds are everywhere. Hoopoe, Roller, Woodchat Shrike, Marsh Harrier, Stone Curlew, Short-toed Eagle, this place would be wonderful in any birding context, but here of course there is a special treat. We are close to a pool, impossible to see from public roads, where both sand grouse species regularly visit. Birds fly through in twos and threes, and we get great flight views of both Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Two Pin-tailed stop briefly on a sandy bank, and we enjoy full body views, difficult to get and very rewarding.

Further stops produce four Southern Grey Shrike in a family group, we get brief views of Great-spotted Cuckoo again, larks are everywhere, and a great time is had by all.

Our final stop this morning is at a large pool, product of the local drainage system, which is full of birds. Ducks, coots, grebes and waders are a welcome contrast to the birdlife of dry steppes, and key new species are Black-necked Grebe in breeding plumage, Great Reed Warbler everywhere chattering furiously, a cracking single Purple Heron, and a wonderful Hobby hawking successfully above the water’s surface. Our first wader of the week was Green Sandpiper on the steppes, and here we add more including Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed Plover and a surprise Lapwing.

Another highlight follows as we drive to Ontinena to enjoy local sausage and fried eggs - a delicious taste of real Spain. This is followed by a welcome siesta in the middle of the day - we could get the hang of this!

In the evening the heat has not let go of the day, and although we see lots of birds, not so many as yesterday. Two Great-spotted Cuckoo are very obliging, with Simon and Andy each finding a Little Bustard feather to keep as a souvenir. Four Pin-tailed Sandgrouse let us approach to within 50 feet, we really know these birds by now. Calandra, Thekla and Crested Lark start moving around more at about 7pm, and by 8pm we are back at the hotel, getting ready for a last night extravaganza. With a celebratory glass of cava in hand, we enter today’s birds on the list, with a few more in prospect tomorrow. Our chicken dinner is accompanied by lots of laughs, and as Josele explains the difference between hot and cold milk to his end of the table, his friends Alberto and Jose paying close attention, we begin to sink under the weight of the speciality de casa. This mixture of honey, rosemary and schnapps is packed attractively in second-hand Macallan bottles, a potent blend which finishes the evening and most of the participants, though Geoff is still up for a Midnight walk with the Spanish contingent. Now known to each other as Tobias and Houllier, Geoff and Josele worry a few of us - can they find their way back to the hotel? Hilarity all round.

Saturday 18 June
By 9.30am we are polished, paid up and packed into the buses. Another scorching day in Aragon as we travel south east to a Lesser Kestrel colony. We see 8 or 9 males and a single female circling the abandoned building, and spend a comfortable time identifying key features such as large central tail feathers, plain backs for the males and the tricky blue line on the forewing. The females are, we imagine, mostly inside incubating, but noisy Jackdaws make sure the males get no peace outside.

Dodging the traffic around Barcelona, we don’t expect much from a quick visit to the nature reserve just south of the airport. We only have thirty minutes, the plane is waiting, let’s have a quick look…..

How wrong we are to underestimate the place, as ’lifers’ are thunking into place every couple of minutes. A Penduline Tit calls and flies over the hide; Fan-tailed and Cetti’s Warbler call and the Fan-tailed gives good views; four Greater Flamingo are easy to recognise; two Gull-billed Tern fly past and four Whiskered Tern are on posts in the water. We see Little Egret, a passing Kentish Plover, add Tree Sparrow to the list, and reserve star status for Little Bittern - two great views of perhaps the same male bird flying over us at close quarters. As we prepare to leave, four Monk’s Parrokeet fly over the hide and away, a suitable finale, and a great finish to our birding, with a final total for the group of 150 species. This is a large total for any European destination, so I think Josele was right – we were indeed a ‘lucky group’!

The rest of the day passes quietly, we say goodbye to Josele and catch our flight without incident. In London it is as hot as Spain, but we are full of birds too…….

Postscript

• You may be pleased to know that on the second Heatherlea trip “Birds and Butterflies, 4-11 July”, we saw both male and female Wallcreeper at both sites, so good news for the future.
• Thanks to David for several of the Photos used here.

Thanks to everyone for your company and good humor throughout!  

Kevin